"Fun" with disposable riding mowers

I have an acre of property, a lot of which is "lawn". I use the air quotes because it's green and needs to be mowed frequently, though admittedly a significant minority of it is green things other than grass, because I can't bring myself to be the stereotypical Suburban Dad that "takes pride in his lawn", i.e. spends real money on a service to spray chemicals on the lawn to make it more grass, and has a whole lawncare "regimen" that is religiously followed each weekend and season. I throw down some grass seed to fill in bare spots and otherwise hope for the best. I just can't be bothered to pretend that's important, and since I chose to live in an area with no HOA, no one else can force me to. Also, I'm on a well, and I'm certainly not interested in wasting my water keeping the grass I've potentially spent good money cultivating alive during a drought, nor am I keen on doing things to increase how frequently I need to mow it, and a large portion of my back yard is heavily shaded during the summer and heavily covered in leaves during a lot of the fall, so consistent, even grass is problematic at best anyway. 

For the first couple of years I owned this house, I managed to convince myself that it was manageable with a self-propelled push mower, out of some mistaken notion of needing the exercise. After a bout with heat stroke, and realizing that I was wasting way too much of my weekend mowing, I decided to get a riding mower. I do not regret this decision, even when considered against the more typical method around here of paying a service to handle it.

My yard is probably 50% hills of varying steepness, some that are something you can mow side-to-side, (though there are some times when you have to shift your weight to the uphill side of the seat) others where you pretty much have to go up and down or diagonally across for fear of rolling the tractor. So I pretty much knew a zero-turn was right out, and I was looking for a traditional riding mower with a locking differential to manage the hills better. About ten-ish years ago, most of the mid-range riding mowers with hydrostatic drive had a pedal for a manual diff lock, but somewhere along the line, that had been replaced with either a lower-end diff that didn't lock (in the really cheap ones), or an auto-locking one in the higher end lawn (not garden) tractors. Pretty much across the board, that auto-locker was a Tuff-Torq K46 hydrostatic transaxle, unless you were stepping up to a garden tractor intended to pull ground-contacting implements. The right combination of price, features, availability, and not being an MTD with a nicer-sounding licensed brand name like 90% of the Cub Cadet, Craftsman, etc. available at the big boxes, plus no-interest financing led me to a Husqvarna YT42DXLS, which Husqvarna specifically claimed was well-suited for hilly applications, and given that it was roughly half again the price of the Lowes Depot variants, I figured more robust and reliable.

Worked great for the first 2.5 years I owned it, until a combination of some still-undetermined issue with a full fuel tank and the fuel/vapor system puking raw fuel into the air cleaner, hot exhaust, and dry leaves led to an engine stall followed by a fire that due to the distance from an available fire extinguisher led to a very melted front end and a total replacement of the engine. Fortunately for me, Husqvarna and Kohler stood by their product and covered what was probably half the cost of the tractor in parts and labor repair work under warranty. I've used it for another 3 years since then, though I do have a fire extinguisher mounted on the fender now. That brings us to last week, where a new problem presented itself. I sometimes mow only a section or two of my yard based on where the grass is long, but this time I did the entire yard at once. Toward the end of my mow, which hits the steepest part right at the end, it got slower and slower and more moan-y going up the hills until finally it would barely move itself under its own power on anything other than flat ground. No slipping belt noise, just the moaning that sounds like a bad power steering pump, which unfortunately means a transaxle issue.

Husqvarna maintains that this transaxle is maintenance-free, i.e. there is no fluid level to maintain, and no standard interval to change the fluid. Tuff-Torq equivocates a bit, as they do sell replacement fluid, and some variants of it do list a maintenance schedule, but after some research, I understand why - this is basically a sealed transmission. It has no drain plug or accessible fill cap, nor a filter. There is a fill cap with a magnet to collect spare bits of transmission out of the fluid, but because the transaxle is typically under the under-seat fuel tank, the only way to drain the fluid is to remove the transaxle completely from the frame, pry off the cap that is now exposed from the top of the case, and turn the transmission upside down to dump out the old fluid, which is usually traditional 10W30 motor oil. You might be able to use a vacuum fluid change system, but access is still going to be an issue, and you're unlikely to get all of the fluid that way. So they're right, it's not exactly consumer serviceable in the way that one might expect a homeowner to change the oil, air filter, spark plugs, etc. Seems too good to be true, but service intervals on lots of stuff have been getting extended and simplified because of higher quality lubricants, better designs etc. so I guess it could be plausible, right?

No, dear reader, our instincts are correct, it is basically too good to be true. The internet is pretty full of sad stories about this transaxle failing exactly like this after a low triple digit number of hours of what should be typical use in a variety of brands and models of riding mower like this. Some get repaired or even replaced under warranty, but I'm well outside my warranty period. Turns out that this transaxle has a bit of a design flaw that a cynical person might look at as a very clever way to make these things cheaper to build, and ultimately more disposable when they fail after some number years of use that is >= the warranty period. Since things expand when they get hot, this transaxle has a breather that will allow fluid to escape instead of pressurizing and blowing out a seal or the fill cap. The act of using it to carry my considerable avoirdupois plus a full tank of fuel up a 25+ degree incline, or across a slightly less severe (15-18 degree) incline for long periods of time, especially in the heat of summer, means that it's probably burping out fluid pretty consistently, that then collects along with the grass and leaf dust as greasy schmutz all over the cooling fins, making the overheating problem worse, which causes more fluid foaming and venting, and basically cooks the transaxle. Those same forums and YouTube videos have hopeful stories about people managing to resuscitate them by swapping the fluid for synthetic 5W-50 (which is what TT sells on their site as replacement fluid) after draining considerably less than the factory fill out of them, cleaning the fins, maybe swapping the drive belt, but also those who did that, had no improvement, and had to crack the case to replace the internal parts that had worn prematurely due to overheat and lack of lubrication. The rebuild kit, if you can find it, appears to be almost $500. The replacement transaxle is closer to $1K. So despite the fact that I have an engine with less than 60 hours on it and a perfectly functional mower deck, I am somewhere between maybe being able to do major surgery to get it functional enough to sell to someone with a flat yard, and selling it as-is to someone who's looking for a donor engine and/or mower deck for a project. I figure that even if I fix it, my yard means that the same problem exists, and I'm basically signing up to tear the thing apart every season or two to change the fluid, plus the existing accelerated wear likely means that the next time this starts happening, it'll be necessary to start throwing expensive parts at it.

I am still waiting to see if I can limp it along to use it for short periods of time before it overheats, or if it is far enough gone that I am going to be back to push mower for a few weeks or what, but the long-term fix is that since my dad has hired a service to tend to his several acres, he is going to sell me his now-idle Kubota GR2100, which is a small (I think 4WD) diesel lawn and garden tractor that is probably much better suited to my terrain and one or two notches up in terms of the heavy-duty vs medium/light duty and prosumer vs residential spectrum compared with my current problem child. 

Musings on the swipey dating apps

Well, after a bit more than a year of blissful ignorance about what the dating apps were doing, I'm back at it, so I thought I'd write a little update to my previous post.

After my generally terrible experience with Tinder and its awful UI that caused me to bail after 3 weeks, I went to Bumble. Turns out I never really discussed it in comparison to Tinder when I used it for a couple of months in the fall of 2019, so briefly:  

Bumble is another swipey app, and as I understand it, was formed by a woman who had been in a leadership role at Tinder and parted ways with them due to sexual harassment and other issues, so the "like Tinder, but better" vibe definitely figured in. Bumble had been hands-down the better overall experience, because it addressed 95% of Tinder's counterintuitive UI, the silent failures (it throws up a flag "you're using Bumble offline"), and because it was a newer app and was trying to attract people, less upsell. It also was designed to address what I called brand confusion on Tinder, where it was trying to be both a dating app and a hookup app, because there were categories of things beyond the short bio that you could use as filters, but only if you had populated them, meaning there was incentive to complete that part of the profile. There were also prompts for additional info so that you have more to go on than the pictures and a couple hundred characters of bio. Additionally, there are rules about photos having to contain actual people, so you didn't end up with dating profiles with no actual pictures of the person they were representing. Between this, and the fact that when there's a match, women have to initiate the conversation, they were definitely pitching it as a place for a safer, more useful experience for those wanting to find something more than a hookup, but without the heavy time commitment of building a giant profile to sacrifice to the algorithm gods for the "matching you with science" dating sites. So Bumble had better quality profiles, and the feeling that you were actually getting somewhere faster for the time you invested. And measured by actual success, it worked for me - I matched with someone I was able to chat with long enough to decide we wanted to meet in person, and date for more than a year, during which my Bumble account was happily dormant.

But, after reactivating my account in late January and dusting off the place, I discovered that sometime last year, Bumble instituted a swipe limit, and it's really aggressive - something like 25 yes swipes every 24 hours if you're on their free tier. They still have generally better quality profiles, but you're seeing a lot less of them in a given session, meaning that everyone's match chances are way down, despite lots of new users due to "well, it's a pandemic, how the hell else am I going to meet people?" There are also a lot of efforts to upsell to get better access to various features. 

So, I groaned and signed back up for Tinder. Most of my previous complaints are still true, but 6 weeks in, I'm at least more used to the UI now. Tinder has a yes swipe limit too, but it's more like 50, and it resets every 12 hours, so it's a lot less intrusive. I suspect Tinder is still playing some games with what profiles they show you in order to get you to go paid, because I frequently am told that there are no more matches in my area, but there are several that are in their daily "top picks" that may or may not eventually show up in the regular feed, and closing the app and reopening frequently brings several additional profiles. But it seems like when the available profiles drop below a certain threshold, they'll arbitrarily ignore your age range and distance limits, so some subset of what you're getting isn't actually usable. Tinder has also started making it look like you have new messages so that they can show you more ads than the ones that show up in between profiles, and that seems kind of cruel.

But Tinder has a somewhat more fundamental problem that they don't seem interested in actually solving - fake and otherwise garbage profiles that ruin the signal to noise ratio. This is likely Tinder trying to strike a balance between keeping you on the platform longer swiping through garbage so they can show you more ads and keep trying to convince you to pay for the service, and having a reputation as a waste of time/ not worth the effort.

Anecdotally, I'd say that 25-40% of the profiles I'm getting shown are not useful because they're doing some or all of the below: 

• using generic photos (landscapes, memes, food, etc) instead of pictures of the person they're purportedly representing
• leaving the bio completely blank
• These first two are especially frustrating because it's a site where you're literally deciding based on a handful of pictures and a few words if you might want to meet someone. I suspect some of this is women who think "well, they're not going to read the profile anyway and they're swiping right on everyone in the hopes of getting a match, so why bother?" but for those of us that aren't, it's just wasting everyone's time and limiting the potential match pool.

• advertising their sensual/erotic massage services
• and they know they're likely doing something prohibited, because the people generating these accounts do things like post a picture full of text with details about their services and how to contact them with a code word on another platform (usually snap or instagram), or deliberately misspell certain keywords (add spaces, extra letters and numbers etc) to defeat pattern matching. 
• a catfish to try to get you to sign up for another paid-only dating site (Ashley Madison is still a thing, apparently), their Onlyfans, or some similar paid content site
• putting their location as a big US city so that they're shown to people as a local option but actually being based in any number of remote countries, ostensibly wanting to chat to improve their English, but I suspect also hoping for import dating, or another type of catfishing.

I'd been dutifully reporting the more obvious of these, but I suspect this is a fool's errand, and in the last couple of weeks it appears that Tinder either accidentally or intentionally made this harder. It used to be once you reported a profile, you could then swipe left so you wouldn't see it again. Reporting a profile now makes it disappear, but it'll show back up in your options later, so you have to interact with it twice. Similarly, if you match with someone and they play any of these games in private messages, you have to report them before they realize you aren't falling for it and unmatch you, because it's extremely difficult to report someone after they've unmatched. 

It is difficult to continue putting time and effort into either of these sites right now due to the lack of success, but it is harder to discern where the frustration about the crappiness of the platform ends, and my own limitations as attractive to the pool of people I'm interested in begins. Either way, I do appear to be getting exactly what I paid for this time around. 

Tesla Autopilot update

I'm coming up on having owned my Tesla Model Y for 5 months, and thought it might be useful to give a little update on my experiences using Autopilot. I use it pretty consistently where I can, with a few exceptions that I'll get into below. Since I don't have the FSD beta yet, that means that it's usually offered whenever there are lines on the road. I've found that it'll be available even on two lane roads without a center double yellow line, as long as there is a line on the edge of the road. So for example, there's a residential street nearby that has a bike lane marked, and thus has nice stripes along the edges but no double-yellow line. That seems to be enough for autopilot.

Right now, if you are on a divided interstate highway and some selected limited access US and State route highways, it'll offer Navigate on Autopilot, which is a slightly more autonomous mode, where if you've set a destination in the nav system, it will recommend, but not execute until you confirm, lane changes to get you into a faster lane when you're overtaking slow traffic, to keep you from clogging the left lane, and to get away from construction cones, as well as to make sure you're in the correct lane when the road divides or you need to take an exit. It will also actually signal and make the exit for you so that you follow the navigation. It's pretty seamless, and the amount of interventions I need to make in this mode are very minimal, though occasionally it is fussing at me to get out of the left lane when I am literally in the process of overtaking a slower vehicle. My only real complaint here is that it is ultra-conservative about speed on cloverleafs, to the point that I always feel like I'm annoying the driver behind me if I leave it to its own devices. But given what I'll say below about how it manages curves elsewhere, that's probably appropriate.

Regular Autopilot is what happens everywhere else. It follows lanes, will change lanes when safe to do so if you signal your intent with a turn signal, it stops at stop signs, traffic lights, and maintains a safe following distance. On 2 lane and some 4 lane roads, the max speed you can set autopilot to use is speed limit + 5MPH. On other 4 lane roads, the logic allows you to set whatever speed you want. There are settings in the system regarding how you want it to manage set speed vs speed limit, so that when you invoke Autopilot, or the speed limit changes, it responds in the same way you'd be when driving. It still will not make turns that are more than just following a curve in the existing lane of travel, so even if you have navigation active, it won't make that right turn at the intersection it just told you to do. As I said initially, it works well for what it is, as long as you remember that it's not autonomous and pay proper attention. Inclement weather is a mixed bag. I was honestly super-impressed with how well it did on a secondary two lane road on a foggy, rainy night where the visibility wasn't great, but the driver is still definitely responsible for managing its safe speed - it doesn't slow down because the wipers are on, or because of temperatures, or whatever. I have also had situations where Autopilot was unavailable due to crud on the front or side sensors when driving in a post-snow melt where that salt and slushy crud all mix to throw a bunch of trash on your car and you use a half-gallon of winshield washer fluid in one drive.

But I now have a better sense for what it does poorly, what confuses it, etc. and that has led to both some situations where I don't use it, and areas where I have to intervene more frequently to keep things literally between the ditches. Here's a list in rough order of increasing severity: 

• Traffic lights - AP is pretty conservative about lights. Unless it's following a vehicle at close range so it can see that they're proceeding through the intersection, it requires you to tap the stalk or press the accelerator briefly to confirm it's safe to proceed through the green light even though it's clearly recognizing it as a green light. I had hoped this was a matter of teaching the AI, but it hasn't improved at all over time. It will stop for a yellow if it hasn't entered the intersection yet, including if you have already given it permission to proceed because the light was green and now isn't. This all makes sense in terms of safe, conservative driving, so I can't really complain all that much other than to wonder what is different where FSD is concerned.
• Flashing lights that aren't normal traffic lights - those warning signs at the side of the road for pedestrian crossings, school zones, etc. usually are yellow and make it think it needs to slow down for what is soon to be red, or per driving rules, slow for a flashing yellow at an intersection to be sure it's safe to proceed. It especially doesn't know what to do with various flashing yellow lights that look and are placed like traffic lights, such as the emergency signal in front of my fire department that has a normal red on top that is only ever lit when the trucks need to exit, and a smaller yellow underneath that is always flashing, or the horizontal flashing lights signifying an intersection that is flashing red in the cross direction. Given the yellow light logic I mentioned above, you're having to forcefully override it with constant pedal application to get it to go past those, and if you're not paying attention, you are going to annoy the driver following you.
• shadows on the road - the lovely sun-dappled road from your car commercial occasionally makes Autopilot think there are obstacles in the road. Same for lane changes where a large truck is casting a huge shadow of itself into the open lane between the two of you where you want the car to go. It'll occasionally decide the truck is actually in that lane and refuse to make the lane change until the angle changes and the shadow isn't there. This is usually only a problem when it's a huge contrast difference, like bright, direct sun filtering through tree leaves.
• Indistinct lanes - areas where it goes from 2 to 1 or vice versa, lanes without a center line, etc. confuse it occasionally. It can guess where the lane is, but it doesn't always guess right, and in situations where it's 1 lane becoming 2, I have had it kinda dither for a minute before it commits to a lane, and when the lane is not clearly delineated by lines on both sides or is exceptionally wide, such as during a 2 to 1 merge, the car does tend to wander a little trying to decide how to center itself in the lane. 
• Blind hills - those fun little whoops that make your stomach jump a little and make the car go a little light on the wheels when you take them quickly? Autopilot basically panics when it can't see the road ahead, and the threshold for that is just long enough that it'll be upset before you get to the crest of the hill where it can see again. Usually it just disables itself, but it has panic braked on me at least once. This is generally worse at night. 

The above things aren't really unsafe, and are more situations where the system is being understandably conservative, but significantly more conservative than a human would be, so it's more something I mention here as a quirk or limitation in the system. The following are more likely to actually cause an accident if not caught quickly enough, and this is the area where a lot more work is needed before full self driving even as Tesla defines it is going to be a workable thing. 

• Misaligned intersections - Autopilot sorta guesses where the path through an intersection is, because the alternative would be to shut down due to the lack of any lines on the road to guide it. Reasonable assumption is "continue roughly straight" but often intersections shift slightly, and there are a couple where it has tried to drive into the median because it didn't realize fast enough that the lane shifted almost a full lane-width to the right, and times where it unceremoniously changes lanes in the middle of an intersection because it picks up the wrong lane marker when re-acquiring the lane. Also if you're the first car in an intersection, stopped at a light with cross traffic going past, it will frequently just give up and tell you AP isn't available because it can no longer make a reasonable guess as to the correct path of travel. Intersections with stripes for various turning lane paths sometimes confuse it too, rightly so. 
• curvy secondary roads - you know the type, those roads that those of us who enjoy spirited driving in a suitable vehicle relish the chance to use without someone in front of us. They're probably posted 35 or 40, but they have plenty of curves, some with those yellow signs suggesting the maximum safe speed is 30, or 25, or even 15. The Model Y actually handles pretty well in spirited driving. It's not my 911, but it can be hustled through those roads safely and enjoyably. The problem is that Autopilot is not capable of managing that sort of road even at speed limit + 5 mph without leading to some potentially scary last-minute interventions. After playing with it for a while, here's the conclusion I've come to: Autopilot is not responding quickly enough to the clues being provided, including the line direction, possible warning signs and even those arrow markers along the side of the road to consistently decelerate to a safe speed that it can manage, nor is it willing to apply aggressive enough steering angle to compensate for maybe carrying too much speed into a turn and getting a little bit of understeer. It has briefly crossed center lines, been close to crossing the outside line and being on the shoulder, and generally not been great at keeping equal distance between the lane markers through turns if more than about 40° of steering angle, or any braking, is required. As a result, I have to do one of two things on roads like this - either I have to manually dial back the max speed at the entrance to a turn it typically botches, or I can only use Autopilot when it is following another vehicle, since they're likely to slow down at the point you'd expect, thus the robot will too in order to maintain following distance. 

There are multiple instances of pretty much all of the above concerns where I have wished for the ability to take a more active role in "teaching" the autopilot to do better, whether it's the ability to give it a voice keyword to tell it that the flashing light it thought it needed to stop for isn't a traffic light so it remembers for the future, or to invoke a "watch my path" mode so that it can store some data about appropriate entry and exit speeds and steering angles on secondary roads and gradually build a crowd-sourced knowledge about how to manage them. Even being able to more successfully navigate roads that I drive all of the time by storing some of that locally, and realizing it needs info from a server for a new road would be a huge improvement in the performance in some of these fuzzy areas. 

I joked with a friend after seeing a Tesla with a Student Driver sticker that given the fairly stupid robot piloting them a lot of the time, probably that should be a factory-installed option. Don't get me wrong, it's still amazing, and I am definitely glad I have it, but objective discussion of where it can be improved is always going to be useful and necessary.  

Man rants about phones

I've been a Sprint customer for 20+ years, partially because I used to work for them, and now mostly because of inertia (generally not having enough issue with them to switch), and still having a few friends that work there and some stock left over from my employee days that make me moderately biased toward their continued success. Now that they've formally been absorbed by T-Mobile, I have been getting emails asking me to come to a store to switch out my SIM to "take advantage of the new combined T-Mobile network", which I did... or at least tried to do, today. 

My daughter's LG G7 Fit, which I bought unlocked from woot for cheap, swapped SIMs no problem. My nicer, purchased directly from Sprint, G7 Thinq was declared ineligible for said SIM swap "due to device". After talking to someone with a technical clue in one of the repair stores, it's apparently being blamed on antennas and bands, i.e. Sprint's specified cocktail of bands and CDMA support for their SKU of the G7 apparently makes it not completely compatible with the long-term network/band layout TMO is using. So while my phone isn't exactly going to stop working tomorrow, I am not gaining what is arguably the primary benefit for the merger - better coverage, and quite likely my coverage via the legacy Sprint network will get worse the longer we go post-merger, eventually terminating in a message that I need to upgrade or risk losing service when they want to turn the lights out on the old stuff at (I'm guessing) the 12-18 months post-merger mark. I'm sure TMO doesn't want to keep CDMA around any longer than absolutely necessary, and Verizon has already announced (but delayed, or else it'd already be gone) the sunset of their 3G network too, so the writing is on the wall. 

So suddenly I am realizing I'm in the market for a new phone. I looked, and I've owned this for 2.5 years. My typical dwell time per phone is about 2.5-3 years, mostly because I tend to not trash them and I keep using them until there's a real reason to upgrade, so this is maybe a few months early in the upgrade cycle, but not too terrible I guess, since it's been paid off for 6 months. 

At this point, I'd be stupid to buy a new phone that isn't 5G, and I still want Android, but I'm finding that this is tweaking a few recurring annoyances in the phone market that might be worth writing about briefly. 

There are a few features that I care about on a phone beyond the obvious table stakes that define it as a smartphone. These may not be interesting to anyone but me, and are admittedly somewhat specific to my use case, but either way:

• Fingerprint reader

My phone and my laptop both have a reader built in, and now that I have set it up so that 1password and some other apps can use it in addition to basic login/unlock, I would never buy another phone without it. I've actually considered getting an external one for my desktop because I miss it when I'm using that. The dedicated hardware reader on the back side of the phone makes so much sense on account of the way you hold it anyway, so I have a strong preference for that, since that's my muscle memory now. Even before the current phone with the reader, the LG G4 had the power button back there, so I'm going on 5 years of turning on my phone that way.

• Software update cadence

This has been a problem for Android since the beginning, because Google didn't have enough market power to exert direct control over updates, and was left beholden to both the device manufacturers and the carriers, both of whom have their own development cycle where they add/update/break their own software and UI skin, and test cycle before they actually release updates to the end user. Google addressed this to some extent by making more and more of the OS carrier and device independent so that more bits could be updated directly via the Play Store, and moving to a monthly security release so they could patch holes in the rest of it in a way that could be deployed more rapidly without the extensive dev and test cycle that comes with a major feature release. My experience is that is still hit and miss, and I'm not sure whether the carrier or the device manufacturer or both is to blame for that. I was getting monthly security updates about quarterly (i.e. 3-ish months behind current) on this phone, but that dried up when the merger closed, so I'm currently stuck on May 2020.

• Expandable storage (microSD slot)

No matter how much storage you spring for when you buy the phone, it's probably not going to be enough, especially given the arms race that seems to be happening with camera sensors and their megapixel counts and support for 4K and even 8K video. Granted, with the accelerating transition to cloud services, streaming audio, etc, maybe that's not as important as it was a few years ago, but I'd rather just take advantage of how cheap ridiculous amounts of storage have gotten, slap a microSD chip in my phone (current one is 256GB) and not have to think about storage use, ever, even if I put a large portion of my entire music collection on it, and keep every photo and video I've ever taken with a smartphone, and back up all of my SMS weekly, and, and, and... 

• Wireless charging support

I have several wireless chargers now. They're not a complete substitute for USB-C charging, but they're useful, and I'd be annoyed if I couldn't charge my phone by setting it in the built-in phone holder in the Tesla.

• Headphone jack

I have Bluetooth headphones, and a bluetooth speaker, and a bluetooth adapter to let my phone talk to my home stereo, and even in the old pickup with the aux jack, I got a little bluetooth to aux adapter so a real headphone jack is more of a nice to have anymore, but having the ability to put the big wired over-ear cans on for noise reduction and feed them from my phone is still helpful.

In the US Android market, with basically 3 carriers, there are a few main brands that pretty much everyone considers because they're consistently offered and supported by the big 3 as the flagship devices. There are others that are considered budget offerings, but that's not really my focus, nor is how much "better off" I'd be with an iPhone. This is specifically about the tradeoffs for my options in Android. Pros and cons to switching to Apple is, as Alton Brown says, another show. 

• Samsung

Samsung makes pretty good hardware, but it is increasingly hamstrung by their insistence on forcing you to use their (usually inferior) versions of apps and features that already come with Android, most notably their voice assistant Bixby, along with their heavy-handed UI reskin of Android. And they're simply not good enough at software to justify this. I can't find the story to link to it, but I remember reading some really impressive horror stories around their development practices that made me pretty leery of ever owning another Samsung device. Between that and the lack of an MicroSD card slot [edited to add 4/5] (apparently this resurfaced briefly on the S20 but is gone again on the 21) and often a headphone jack, I left Samsung behind after the Galaxy S4 and mostly haven't regretted it. Part of why I use Android is that I like the app ecosystem. Google has a good keyboard, voice command features, tap and pay app, photo app, and OS UI. I don't want to have to fight with my device to use those things. 

• OnePlus

I haven't been paying a lot of attention to OnePlus. Brief glance through shows generally solid hardware, though it depends on the specific phone model whether it has wireless charging, none of them have microSD, and they're mostly using the under-display fingerprint reader. I had hoped they were pure Android as well, but it looks like if they were, they've become infected by the need to "improve" it with their own touches. To be fair, it seems fairly well reviewed, and the 8Pro is a reasonable competitor to the LG V60 from a spec and pricing perspective though it doesn't seem to be offered through TMO as some of the others are. 

[Edited to add 4/5] The Oneplus 9 has been released since I wrote this, and initial reviews all say it is a very solid phone, a good flagship offering capable of competing with Samsung, and generally better hardware than the current Pixels, though the above concerns still exist. 

• Google

Google has their Pixels, and the main selling point for those is that you're getting a pure Android experience. This is about as close to the Apple direct software upgrade cycle as you get in Android, for better or for worse. One assumes that the hardware and software integration means that they work well together and bug escape is minimal, but Google is a pretty siloed company, and seems to be getting increasingly dysfunctional, so I'm not sure how valid that assumption is anymore. Google also gives you access to the newest Android features here first, and their camera/photos app has been doing well competing with Apple for impressive quality in poor conditions. The current gen has a hardware fingerprint reader in the back where I like it, but no provision for external storage unless you count plugging something into the USB-C port. Google assumes that the only thing you needed all that storage for was pictures, and gives you unlimited storage on Google Photos, but at "high quality" which is not original quality. Also, Amazon's included photo storage for Prime members is better as a photo backup solution, as it has no such restrictions. Google really wants you to subscribe to one or more of their services to address this. I'm also sad that they have gone away from the Nexus name, because I enjoyed the hat tip to Blade Runner, but since ultimately I'm going to have to compromise somewhere, I'm considering the Pixel 5 more seriously than I have considered previous Google phones. 

• LG

I've had 2 LG phones, the G4 and the G7. Been very happy with both, as LG has gotten pretty good about mostly leaving Android stock (my phone has a Google button to invoke Google's assistant), and the hardware was quite good, with one or two exceptions. LG had fairly good speakers in the phone as far as those go, and they also had a real headphone jack with a fairly decent quality DAC such that it could drive a good set of headphones surprisingly well. 

The exceptions? As it ages, my fingerprint reader is getting flaky, which is kind of annoying but not bad enough to be an issue yet. Really, the big issue is that LG sucks at software updates. My phone, released in mid-2018, has already been abandoned on Android 9, despite Android 10 coming out roughly a year after the phone's initial release. Some flavors of G7 (looks like Korean and EU versions, and possibly the TMO version) got Android 10, but neither mine nor my daughter's appear to be among the chosen ones. And there are now rumors flying [edited 4/5 to add] confirmations that they might be interested in exiting the phone business entirely, which makes me at least a little leery of buying another LG and potentially ending up with a truly orphaned device [edited 4/5 to add] a complete no op, since they're still coming from the factory with Android 10, despite us being on to Android 11 already. LG has also brought out their own payment app to compete with Google Pay and Samsung Pay, so it seems they're losing the plot on not substituting their own apps again. 

Setting all that aside for a moment, LG has a weird collection of what might be considered their flagship devices right now. The V60 is probably the closest analog to the G series, supports 5G and has a microSD slot, but unfortunately has moved to using the under-display (and thus front-mounted) fingerprint reader that apparently doesn't work as consistently as the hardware ones, so it's on the short list, but I'd have to relearn my muscle memory of reaching for the phone and unlocking it with my index finger that is already in the right position on the back of the phone based on how I hold it. But they've also been chasing the gimmicky - they have 2 different varieties of multiscreen phones, the Wing, which has a screen that rotates 90° while leaving the lower half of the vertical screen available for simultaneous use, and a second screen case for the V60, which opens like a book to reveal 2 screens. Moving parts to break, more screens to use battery and get broken, limited case options, and generally thicker to accommodate all of this for questionable benefit. It all seems a bit "shark jumpy" to me in light of the above mentioned rumor.  

I don't think this set of wants and needs is that unique to me, but maybe it is. Fortunately I have time to do some more research and not rush to make a decision since my current phone is functional.

Tesla Model Y Purchase Experience

Buying a Tesla is not like buying a normal car, in a lot of different ways. I figured the purchase itself might be worth a separate post.

I have the benefit of having a quasi-local Tesla dealer, and they have stuff on hand to test drive, and were doing well with the touchless/masked/distanced test drives, so there's not a whole lot to say there. I pre-scheduled the test drives on their website (scheduled both for the same time, and they just asked which car I wanted to start with when I got there). The sales manager I was working with gave the kids both scale models of the Model 3 to take home, which was cool. Also I was amused that because the Jeep was in the shop, I ended up taking the 23 year old beater pickup to the middle of fancy-pants Tyson's Corner. But I digress...

While I could have put my order in at the showroom, I wasn't 100% decided yet, so I told the sales folks that I'd do it online. It's a completely unremarkable process that feels exactly like every other thing you've ever ordered online. You create a Tesla account, and if you have a friend who has a Tesla, you go in via their referral code (here's mine!) so that you both get some perks (we both got 1000 miles of free supercharging) tick a few boxes for the various options you want for your car, enter some information, give them a credit card for the $100 nonrefundable deposit, and you're done. The site said approximately 6 weeks to delivery, but nothing more specific than that. 

Worth noting that I did consider a lease, since in a lot of ways this is less like buying a car and more like buying a new phone, in that the technology moves so fast that you're mostly trying to avoid it being obsoleted by the newer, slightly shinier version the minute you get it in your hot little hands. However, Tesla's leases have been a little weird at various points. About 5 years ago, when I was considering buying a Model S, there was no lease program at all. The closest they had was a guaranteed re-purchase price, where at the end of 3 years, you could sell the car back to them at a pre-agreed price. However, unlike a lease, where you're financing the difference between the purchase price and residual value, which makes the payments cheaper, you still had to finance the whole purchase price, eliminating the primary benefit of a lease. They did eventually add a real lease program, but I was no longer in the market for a car by then. The Model 3/Y have a lease option, but when we were discussing it, the sales person said that the lease for Model 3 and Y had an important caveat - you can not buy out the car at the end of the lease. You have to give it back. This is because right now, Tesla believes that they will be at a point when these things start coming back from their leases that they'll want a ready supply of vehicles to make into an autonomous taxi fleet (or perhaps a zipcar style "car as a service" model). Interesting gamble, but ultimately the combination of the equity in my Jeep and favorable financing made a lease unnecessary to get my payments where I wanted them, so I decided not to fool with that just in case I wanted to hang on to this thing longer than 3 years or have equity to trade up at some point. 

Once the order is accepted, they take you through some additional steps, including the option to fill out a credit application for their financing, which I did because their offered 2.3% for 72 mo. was as good as anywhere else I could find, the delivery info (who to put on the registration, proof of insurance, where you're taking delivery, etc) and the option to trade in a vehicle.

When the credit application is approved (usually less than 24 hours), then you have the option to lock in the final financing terms. You don't have to do it immediately, but it appears (more on this later) that Tesla doesn't consider the order complete and put you in line for an actual car until you complete this, and that means you have to know how much you want to finance vs what you're paying on delivery. If you're wrangling a trade, this requires some guesswork. I went to the usual "what's my car worth" sites and got an average price and deducted that much from my purchase price to figure out my amount to finance. 

The trade-in process is probably the only part of this that may be more trouble than it's worth. Tesla has no used car business, so trades are going directly to the auction, and it's clear they're mostly doing it for convenience. While you can take your vehicle to be evaluated for trade-in value at the dealer, they offer an online version too. I'm not sure if that's a function of trying to reduce contact due to COVID or of the fact that not everyone has a dealer nearby, or just to make it easier, but anyway... You put in your VIN, and they want pictures of each side of the vehicle's exterior, along with a picture of the front seats from the passenger side door, and a picture of the odometer. The first problem is that the picture upload function limits the size to 4MB per picture, which is smaller than the pictures your average smartphone camera produces anymore, and your average person may not know how to reduce the size of their pictures, so Tesla's website really should handle this itself. Second problem is that I was taking pictures in my garage, because it was raining, and couldn't fit the whole car in the picture straight on, so they rejected my pictures. I didn't get email about this, one of their folks called me to tell me, and I mentioned that part of the problem was the size limit, and he gave me an email address to send the updated pictures to, assuring me that he'd associate them with my account, but saying that as of right now, the value on the Jeep was probably around $18K. I'd read that Tesla would match the value from an official Carmax offer, so I mentioned that I'd probably be doing that, and he told me that they've stopped matching Carmax, so if I thought I'd get a better price there, I should deal with them directly. I didn't hear anything further after I emailed him new pictures, so I assumed things were ok. But I got a phone call about 3 weeks later, asking if I could take delivery before the end of the month/quarter and take advantage of an incentive to get another 1000 miles free Supercharging. During this call, the person I was working with (different person than before) revealed that rather than this being a call to tell me my car was ready, because my trade-in evaluation wasn't completed, my order was essentially stalled. I pointed them to the person I had emailed updated pictures to previously, but also told them that it was likely I'd cancel the trade-in completely, but I needed some sort of assurance that they actually had a car ready for me before I got rid of my current vehicle. They couldn't give me a guarantee, but said that they were trying very hard to fulfill all open orders before the end of the quarter. I realized that I didn't really need the Jeep even if the delivery slipped a couple of weeks, so I went to Carmax the following weekend, they offered me $20K, so I sold it to them that day. While I was waiting for Carmax to cut me a check, I went into Tesla's system and cancelled the trade-in, and less than 24 hours later, I got a text asking to schedule my delivery. 

TL;DR unless you really have to do trade-in via Tesla, because you can't work out the logistics of selling your current car via another method, you're better off avoiding that part. 

Once you've been assigned a vehicle, they contact you to schedule delivery. Before delivery, you have to have proof of insurance uploaded. In some states, they require the actual VIN to be on the policy by then, in VA, I just have to have proof of an active policy, and have it officially on your insurance by the day you drive it home. You also have the option to pay off your balance, so that the day of delivery, you inspect the vehicle, they activate it and associate it with your Tesla account and phone, they put license plates on it, and off you go. Instead of having to muck about with cashier's checks, they support ACH transfers, which is nice. 

One other nice little detail about the delivery process - I was in a situation where I didn't have anyone available to drop me off at the Tesla dealer on a Tuesday afternoon when my delivery was scheduled. When Tesla's representative called to confirm delivery time and tell me where to go when I got there, I asked where they wanted me to park my truck since I was going to have to drive it up there, leave it overnight, and then get a ride back to retrieve it the next day. "Oh, you don't have to do that... we'll just set up an Uber to pick you up from your house and bring you to the dealer, if that's ok with you..." So Tesla paid for my ride to the dealer. 

I was prepared to find all sorts of fit and finish issues on my initial delivery inspection, because I had seen all of these videos and pictures online of early delivery Model Ys where it was clear they hadn't gotten the bugs worked out of assembly yet, but mine was pleasantly devoid of those. Panel gaps were consistent, and I didn't find any noticeable defects in paint, trim, or fit and finish generally. Six months appears to have made a significant difference in that regard. 

So I bought a Tesla Model Y...

Early in my evaluation, I had all but eliminated the Model Y on specs alone. It seemed too small, and Tesla doesn't publish the typical measurement of cubic footage of storage space with the rear seats up, only the max storage capacity with the seats folded, making the typical apples to apples comparison I'd been using with other vehicles impossible. I even tried asking via Twitter, Tesla's website chat function, and an email, and none got a satisfactory response. If the measurement exists, they don't make it available. In retrospect, I think this is because that would be a misleading figure since there is likely an SAE standard method to calculate that measurement, and you aren't allowed to include things like the front trunk (officially the "frunk") and the underfloor storage, which in the Model Y make a pretty significant difference in its overall capacity. But after watching a few videos online, and seeing how big the additional storage areas were, I decided I needed to give it a better look in person before summarily eliminating it, leading to the trip to the dealer to test drive it. Obviously it's a good thing I did. 

The Model Y is definitely smaller than the Jeep Grand Cherokee that it replaces, but between the frunk and the deep well under the cargo area floor, which will swallow a medium sized suitcase with room to spare, I think the seats-up cubic footage for holding stuff is actually about the same. Definitely more space than comparably sized small crossovers like the RAV4.

I have about 1500 miles on the car now, including one ~900 mile road trip, so here are my initial impressions. 

Likes: 

The sound system is great, among the best I've heard in a car. The seats are comfortable, it has plenty of rear seat room (all 3 of us sat in the back with me (6'4", 35" inseam) sitting behind myself and it was fine, so I expect it'd do well with 5 passengers even on a trip), the acceleration even on the long-range model is indeed grin-inducing, ride quality and handling are both good. I also love the full-glass roof.

The nav system works well, does a great job helping you plan trips including charging stops and projecting range and state of charge. I haven't had a lot of instances where I've been driving in traffic, so I don't know how good it is at rerouting you around traffic like Google Maps does yet. I do miss the integration of notifications about speed traps/cameras, disabled vehicles and accidents that Gmaps provides, along with the ability to contribute those things while you drive.

The use of my phone as a key works way better than I thought it would, to the point that I've gotten really used to not carrying a key and have walked out of the house without keys for my other, key-requiring vehicles. Not having to actively lock or unlock the car is also surprisingly nice. I keep the key card in my wallet as a backup, but haven't needed to use it yet. The inductive charging pad for your phone is also reliable and consistent.

The regenerative braking is aggressive enough that when combined with leaving the default configuration in place that the vehicle will come to and stay at a full stop when you lift off of the accelerator, one pedal driving is possible a lot of the time. It takes some time to get used to and results in some jerkiness at first, but it's in your best interest to get good at it for maximum efficiency. My biggest pet peeve is that it's not consistent, i.e. when the battery is cold or fully charged, the amount of regen braking is reduced, so you can't just learn how/when to lift off of the accelerator to slow down for an intersection smoothly. Autopilot is a lot better at it than I am currently. 

I sprung for the full self driving option, meaning I get all of the available autopilot stuff. I was already familiar with the basic adaptive cruise control, and it works pretty much the same way as the one in my Jeep did, with the exception of addressing one of my main annoyances - it doesn't auto cancel after 2 seconds of being stopped. Instead, it relies on you either pressing the accelerator or the stalk to tell it that it's ok to proceed after it has stopped for traffic control. I don't know how much of the automatically stopping for traffic lights and stop signs is part of the full self driving package and thus unavailable with adaptive cruise if you don't get that feature, but it works pretty well. You can definitely tell that you're training the AI as it asks you to positively confirm that it's safe to proceed when it detects a green light and it's not following another vehicle, but it's a pretty intuitive system.

I've been using actual autopilot a fair amount, both on the highway and on secondary roads. Pretty much anywhere with lane markings is fair game. It's pretty good at following the road, even on ramps and curves, though it's definitely conservative about the speeds it chooses - everywhere but divided highway, you're limited to a max of 5mph over the speed limit with autosteer engaged, and it is probably doing 7-10mph below what I'd do if I were driving it on a cloverleaf or tight curve so occasionally you annoy the drivers behind you with overly conservative driving. Automatic lane changes (you signal, it changes when it's safe to do so) work really well about 90% of the time. It makes driving easier because you are less actively involved in the constant corrections to keep the car in its lane and following the road as well as maintaining safe following distance, but it definitely is not something you can have drive while you do something else. The system is far from perfect/infallible, and the emphasis definitely should be on the "semi" part of semi-autonomous. As impressive as even this level of autonomy is, the robot is still pretty stupid, and it requires your attention. I have incidents nearly every trip of phantom braking (braking for something it shouldn't) and because it doesn't support turns at intersections and stuff yet, even when the nav system is active, I have to turn it off and go manual multiple times on an average trip. I'm averaging a steering intervention (where the car starts to go on the wrong path) about once every 2-3 trips, but so far most of them have been fairly obvious as to why the car got confused. Let's just say that I understand completely why there have been autopilot-involved accidents where autopilot does the wrong thing at the worst possible time and the driver isn't paying enough attention to intervene. It's still a net positive and I think it's worth the premium Tesla charges for it, but like I said above, you can tell you're helping to train an AI, and you should go into it cautiously. 

Dislikes: 

Phone integration is about 5 years behind its competition (Bluetooth only, no Android Auto or Carplay). In addition to playing BT audio and doing phone calls, it will read you text messages and allow you to respond, but the dictation response is too aggressive at assuming that you're done speaking if you pause even briefly, meaning you end up retrying responses more than I typically do with Google's assistant/voice to text. Similarly, it doesn't let you use those features for any other messaging platform like Whatsapp, FB messenger, or Slack, meaning you're still dinking with your phone interact with messages more often than I'd like. The entertainment system also is a little dodgy when it comes to playing stuff off of USB - no support for WMA files at all, occasionally fails to recognize the USB drive (I had to reboot the system the first time I plugged in the drive before it actually scanned it for music), and resume play seems a little inconsistent. Typically, as soon as you open the door to the car, it starts playing back the song you were listening to when you left the car, at a reduced volume until you close the door, which is a nice touch. But about half or more of the time, it does nothing, and I have to finger drag to resize the audio controls at the bottom of the screen to full size, press the USB button on screen, then go to the song list and actually choose a song to get it to start playing again, i.e. pressing the play button or skip forward doesn't do anything useful, almost like it forgot what it was doing last time. It has a Spotify app, but most people have said it's not that great of a UI compared with the phone app. I'd really like a native Amazon music app so that I had better control over what I'm playing on my phone. I suspect anyone that uses iTunes or Youtube Music would want similar. 

Homelink integration for garage door openers is an added-cost dealer installed option. At this price range, that shouldn't be the case. 

The headlights are great, but the automatic settings for turning them on, as well as enabling the high beams are too aggressive and I'd really like a setting to control those thresholds, which is typical in most cars with auto lights. I feel like the car spends a lot of time basically flashing the high beams because it turns them on and off too aggressively in response to traffic, and there's no setting to tell it to be less aggressive in enabling them so that it can be less aggressive in disabling them when it's done so before it should have. 

Rear visibility through the back glass and rearview mirror is not great, though the rearview camera can be turned on at any time, which helps to compensate. I miss the photochromic auto dimming side mirrors that I had on the Jeep, but at least the rearview mirror still does that. 

I don't love the single central screen vs a more normal instrument panel in front of the driver, nor the complete lack of any hard buttons for any controls (even the rear seat heaters and the glovebox release can only be activated from the screen), but I will say that Tesla has done something really intuitive in the way that they use the steering wheel controls to avoid needing separate controls for adjusting mirrors and steering tilt/telescope. And they took a page from BMW and the turn signal stalk always returns to center immediately, so you don't have the tactile indicator that the turn signal is active, which is a little annoying, but I understand why given the interaction with Autopilot. 

Also I think all the stock wheel options for this particular vehicle are ugly compared with the ones available for the Model 3, but learned that the standard ones are actually nice multispoke alloys with a plastic wheel cover, and I think they look better without the covers, so getting what's underneath painted might be the short-term solution. 

Range:

Tesla claims 315 miles of range, which thanks to a recent software update to improve the efficiency of the climate system and motors has just been bumped to 325. This is the EPA test cycle, which means it's the ultimate in conservative, efficient driving, including unrealistic highway speeds, so I knew it was overly optimistic. My first road trip tells me that real world range is more like 75% of that figure, assuming no modifications to my driving style (I set the speed at ~8mph over the posted limit on the highway). Mountainous terrain and cold or hot weather affect it negatively, and traffic that reduces the speed, along with temperate weather that doesn't require the compressor to keep the cabin comfortable affect it positively. Starting from near 100% charge, I needed 2 20-30 min charging stops to do the 450 miles on the way down, including some mountains and 45 degree weather, but was able to do it in one 35 minute stop on the way back when the weather was much nicer and there were a few spots of traffic to moderate the speeds. 

Charging

I bought a Tesla charger for home and ran a 60A circuit. Required a lot of heavy gauge wire since my electrical panel is on the exact opposite side of the house from my garage, but total investment for the charger and installation is well under $1000, some of which is tax-deductible. It happily charges at an indicated 48A, meaning I can charge from basically empty in under 12 hours. The car comes with an adapter to let you use any standard J1772 electric car charger to connect to Tesla's proprietary charging plug so you can use non-Tesla charging infrastructure. It also comes with with a portable charger with a regular NEMA 5-15 plug, but let me be clear here: charging at <15 Amps at 120V with a standard wall outlet is basically not worth it. It's really only useful in an emergency to give you a few miles of range to make it to a real charger, or to keep the car from losing charge when it's sitting outside on a cold night. It will take well more than 24 hours to charge the car that way, so I strongly recommend springing for the adapter set that lets you plug your portable charger into a range of other plugs, including the higher amperage 120V stuff like 5-20 as well as all of the various amperages and configurations of 240V dryer/RV/stove/welder plugs. I figure those will come in handy while visiting family and friends, either borrowing a dryer plug or having them drop a higher amperage outlet in/near the garage or driveway rather than installing a full charger.

Superchargers are Tesla's proprietary version of the DC fast charger (CCS, CHAdeMO, etc) and they are definitely a lot faster than AC charging. The work Tesla has been putting into getting their charger network bootstrapped is obvious, and makes owning a car like this and taking roadtrips much more feasible than if you're trying to string together a trip using only AC chargers, because it makes a multi-hour charging stop into a 20 minute one. It does require a change in mentality over the way you'd typically take a road trip, in that instead of filling up, driving until near empty, and filling up again, you end up stopping to charge for long enough to get to a certain percentage so that you have the range to get to the next supercharger in the line, and you might be stopping to charge before the battery is empty. This is where the trip planner in the nav system is super handy. Due to the way that the charge rate ramps down to preserve the battery once you get above 80% charge, you typically are not charging the battery completely full at every stop unless you really need the range - it is diminishing returns and significantly increases your charge time vs charging for 20 min and planning for a second charger stop. This means that on average, when you stop to charge especially if you're traveling with multiple people, by the time you all use the bathroom and get some food, the car is about ready to proceed. Worth noting that all of the Superchargers I used on the road trip I mentioned above were the first-gen models that top out at 150kW. The gen 2 superchargers and the Model Y's max charge rate are both 250kW and thus the charging stops will get shorter as those get upgraded.

Once my promotional free supercharging miles are used up, I pay $0.26/kWh to charge, which is definitely more than baseline electrical rate, but given the speed of these chargers, it's not an unreasonable convenience charge, and still works out to significantly less per trip than a comparable amount of gasoline or diesel. The Model Y has a 75 kWh battery, so even a full charge comes out to under $20, and the typical, since you're neither running it to 0% nor charging it to 100%, means it's more like $15 a charge. Even assuming more like 200 miles of range, that is still more than the 6-7 gallons of gasoline that buys would net you, so the costs are good. 

I'm happy with my purchase so far. It's not without its tradeoffs, but it's worth a solid look if the combination of price range and vehicle size might fit your needs. 

If this writeup helped you and you don't have any other friends with Teslas that you want to hook up, I'd be thrilled for you to use my referral code when you buy yours. It gives us both some rewards. 

Replacing the Jeep: The candidates

To save time, I'll just point you at the previous post I made about how I look at car shopping. There are spreadsheets of specs, and lots of test drives and reading analysis and reviews. It's a whole big thing, because I'm a huge. nerd, and a huge. car nerd.

Anyway, the goal for my Jeep Grand Cherokee replacement was something that got similar or better fuel economy, had similar interior space, both in terms of passengers and seats-up cargo capacity, still AWD, with adaptive cruise and its safety friends, preferably with a class 2 receiver hitch for my existing bike rack, and not so expensive that even after the trade-in my payments were going to be unpleasant. Diesels were Right Out this time around, which meant that to get the fuel economy I was looking for, I was looking at hybrids, mostly plug-in, as well as all-electrics. Here's the shortlist, along with why they were eliminated. A lot of the eliminations were based on published specs. The paper elimination was more aggressive than I might have been in past years because I definitely went to look at or test drive fewer options than normal due to COVID-19. Basically I only went to the Toyota and Tesla dealers, hence more words about those options.

Plug-in hybrids: 

BMW x5 45e (and 40e) - 40e was fairly limited electric-only range, not a lot of them available, would have needed to go CPO. 45e was brand new and 70K.

Volvo XC60 T8 - similarly pricey, limited electric-only range, smaller than the Jeep

Ford Escape Hybrid - newly available, FWD only, probably also too small but I didn't bother checking once I saw it was FWD. I know the Explorer is also available as a hybrid, but the improvement in fuel economy didn't seem that impressive, or it wasn't going to be available, I can't remember which. 

Porsche Cayenne hybrid/Audi Q5 hybrid - expensive, smaller than the Jeep, not great electric-only range

Rav4 Prime - I really wanted to like this, because apparently it's pretty quick, basically the closest Toyota gets to "performance" hybrid. The Rav has grown in this most recent generation, but not enough to compete with the Jeep. It feels like a size M, while the Jeep was a size L, and the Highlander felt borderline XL. Also the Rav wasn't actually going to be available in the Plugin Hybrid this year.

Hybrids: 

Acura MDX - marginal improvement to fuel economy over non-hybrid, couldn't get the really gorgeous blue color because it was it is only available on the A-Spec, which is a sporty package you can't get with the hybrid drivetrain "because (Acura) reasons". If I'm dropping that kind of coin on a car, I damn well better be able to get the color I want. 

Toyota Highlander - all new and significantly better fuel economy for 2020, albeit still not plug-in. Really nice. However, rear seat headroom is not great because of the moonroof and rear AC system impeding. I'm tall, but it's all in my legs, and when I'm sitting in the second row, my head still brushes the headliner, and there's an AC vent about 1.5" away from my forehead. I have a number of friends with a taller torso than me that would have to slouch back there. The panoramic roof helps by eliminating the space they need to put the moonroof when it's open and moving the AC vents, but is only available on the Platinum edition, which is $50K, and that makes it so you can only get it as a 7 passenger (2 captain's chairs in second row). Since the third row isn't really great for adults, I ended up being sorta ambivalent about the car as an option, it seems too large in ways that aren't helpful for my specific use case, and too small in others. I will say that the full-width and high resolution LCD screen hiding in the rearview mirror to replace the regular mirror with a live rear video feed to compensate for the relatively poor rearview is very cool.

Lexus RX450h - less cargo space than the Jeep, so-so fuel economy (the age of the underlying platform is showing, and it's due for the same powertrain refresh they gave the Highlander, or even a one-up to a plug-in version)

Electrics: 

Audi E-Tron - smaller than the Jeep, expensive, unimpressive range

Jaguar iPace - see above

Ford Mach-E - smaller than the Jeep, not actually released yet.

Mercedes has delayed both their plugin-hybrid and all-electric midsize SUV until next year sometime, so those were never in the running. 

Side note about range: I was aiming for something that had a claimed range that makes it possible to visit a couple of family members in one charge, meaning somewhere around 300 miles. I realize EPA range is not real world range, and that Tesla's had several years to learn both things that actually improve their range, and also how to game the system to make their range look better on paper, while most others are brand new for the year. This means that other automakers range figures are a bit of an unknown. It's entirely possible that their unimpressive range figures are much closer to real-world range rather than EPA theoretical, but it seemed like a bad idea to start with something that had a claimed range lower than my target in case their estimates proved similarly optimistic by comparison.

Pretty rapidly, I got to a point where mostly I was trying to decide whether I had to drop the money on a Tesla Model X, or if the Model Y would be big enough for me, so I went to the Tesla dealer to test drive both back to back, thus I have a slightly more in-depth review, some of which is lifted from FB posts I made about it at the time. 

Tesla Model X

The Model X is definitely larger than the Model Y, which translates to a bit of additional width in the cargo area and slightly more front-to-back depth, but it really doesn't feel like a huge difference in terms of seats-up storage compared to the Model Y. It's also noticeably larger than my Jeep.

Likes:

I drove a performance version, and even without Ludicrous mode engaged, the acceleration is literally breathtaking. Sort of like those linear-induction roller coasters, or what I imagine being launched from the catapult of an aircraft carrier is like. Quoth Ned: "this is never gonna get old!" Unlike the Model Y, the turn signal stalk behaves like every other normal car on the planet, and there's a proper instrument panel in front of the driver. It has a normal-ish key fob instead of using bluetooth to your phone, which makes the security weenie in me a little nervous.

Dislikes: 

A few things show this as a previous generation design when compared with the Y, like the additional stalks for the steering wheel adjustments and dedicated controls for the mirror adjustments, lack of an induction charging pad for your phone, etc. Tesla doesn't really do model year changes like most automakers, rather preferring to improve things inline as soon as they can, but you get the sense that this platform is due for a more extensive refresh based on what they learned on the Model 3 and Y beyond what they might do as an inline change for new models, such that buying one of these right now is like buying the previous generation iPhone after they announce the brand new sexy, only without the price cut on the old one that inevitably follows. However, despite this being available for enough years that a good number are available used, the combination of a fairly tight used market and the way they are holding their value means you're not getting that much of a discount even used. And further in the cars are now technology vein, you're setting yourself even further back on the curve in terms of available tech vs current state of the art, as well as potential battery aging, and that seems like a bad plan in this price range. 

There are a lot of things that feel too cute by half or "your engineers were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should". The doors (all of them) qualify - they're all automatic, including the driver's door opening and closing itself when you walk up to the vehicle with the key, and put your foot on the brake respectively (which admittedly you can disable). Of course I can't discuss the Model X without mentioning those gull-wing doors, which are definitely a cool look, but most of the reviews I've seen say they're pretty impractical when it comes to execution. The doors' "handles" are all buttons, and it's not immediately obvious where you press to get them to open, and even if you disable the automatic stuff, they're still soft-close, and that amount of technology for technology's sake seems prone to failure. The glass layout is different too, in that there is this giant spaceship windshield that goes way up over the heads of the front seat passengers, but as a result it has really useless sun visors, and the back passengers just get little portholes over the doors instead of the uninterrupted view that the Model Y has. The Model X is $20-25K more expensive than the Y, and that nets you more space and about 35 miles of additional range, which makes it a tough sell, especially given the price range that puts it in. I think the only way the X makes sense is if you're actually looking for a 7 passenger electric car.

Tesla Model Y

Since this is ultimately what I ended up buying, it gets the most in-depth review. 

but, as Alton Brown says... That's another show. ;-)

2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel long-term review

I bought a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel in the summer of 2017. Drove it for a total of 3 years, approximately 40K miles, and just sold it last month. What follows is a review that I wrote after the first year and updated after having forgotten about it before I posted it, because this is going to end up being several posts, about getting and then getting rid of this, and what I replaced it with and what I think of that. 

After my divorce, I found myself with 2 vehicles that were not particularly practical for day to day kid taxi and definitely not for long trips with lots of stuff, i.e. they both had back seats, but not something I'd expect the kids to use for multiple hours, and neither was exactly practical for taking lots of stuff on a trip, so I realized that I was going to have to find some sort of crossover/SUV type thing. I probably could have made due about 90% of the time with a wagon or a cute-ute, but I figured if I was getting one, especially since I was getting ready to take the trip within a month or so, I'd want something that was capable of carrying kids, bikes, and all the stuff I normally drag with me to the beach, and my original plan had been to sell the pickup, thus wanting something that could tow a trailer to carry the stuff I'd otherwise have stuck in the bed of the truck. Hybrid SUV/crossovers were a little limited, and those available were either tiny or didn't really gain much in terms of fuel economy, so I concluded I wanted a diesel, and my budget meant used, so I was basically cross-shopping the Jeep Grand Cherokee and the BMW X5d. After a string of fairly unreliable used German cars, anecdotal evidence from others, and being of the general opinion that BMW only designs cars to survive the lease period, I decided that I would try my luck with the Jeep to gain better reliability. I aimed for the 2015 because I'd heard horror stories of first-year teething issues, but generally the reviews were much better for the '15s. 

I bought the Summit, specifically because I wanted the Adaptive Cruise Control, Collision Warning, etc. It’s possible to get those on lower trim packages, but fairly uncommon. Found one with about 34,000 miles on it in Arkansas, I'm suspecting a former Wal-Mart exec vehicle or someone who did traveling sales in the general vicinity due to the high miles for its age.

Likes: 

The seats are comfortable, and the creature comforts are good. I can sit behind myself without feeling too cramped - a feat that was not possible in previous generations of the GC (late 90s/early 2000s), there are plenty of USB and 12V power outlets, seat heaters and steering wheel heater, etc. and a seat cooler, which is impressively useful. 

This trim level gets the up level Harmon/Kardon sound system, which has a great sound, including passing the “vibrate the rearview mirror” test (First track on Outkast’s Speakerboxx) that I have been using for every car sound system since the album came out, probably better than any other vehicle I’ve owned. I like the HD radio a lot too.

The fuel economy is nothing short of amazing for a vehicle of this size and capability. My baselines are my 97 Tacoma 5-spd V6 (part-time 4WD), and my 07 911 Turbo (AWD). Both car and truck got about the same ~18 mpg on my former commute before I transitioned to full-time WFH (27 miles one way, mix of secondary and 55mph speed limit highway). The truck hasn’t been on too many highway trips, but the best it ever gets is low 20s. The 911 can get up into the 26-27 range on the highway if I’m behaving myself, and its main benefit is that the slippery shape and tall gearing means that fuel economy doesn’t fall off as rapidly toward the top end of prudent highway speed.

The Jeep averages 24mpg on my commute, and as long as the highway speed limit is 65mph or less, it’ll break 30mpg. When speeds start getting into the 75+ range because of 70mph speed limits, it’ll be more like 27-28 too. But this is a vehicle that will hold 5 people and a whole bunch of stuff, and is capable of towing more than 7000 lbs. 

Couple that economy with a 23+ gallon tank, and the vehicle has a considerably larger range than its passengers do on long trips. I on more than one occasion got in the thing, drove 600+ miles on one tank, including a stint of 6 hours nonstop once and a personal best of 642 miles on a single tank with an indicated 65 miles of remaining range.

The powertrain is excellent, I rarely feel like it’s too slow even when I need to accelerate briskly, and it only noticeably sounds/feels like a diesel at startup (brief delay after pressing the start button on cold mornings while the glow plugs fire), when you’re outside of the vehicle or driving with the windows down, especially just off of idle and you get a little bit of “canal boat” clatter. I do wish that it had an auto stop/start, but I understand that comes in later model years.

The transmission is smooth, but busy given the 8 speeds. It is possible to confuse it at speeds just off of idle, because it likes to start in 2nd gear unless you have come to a full stop for a few seconds, and if you’re on an incline or something, the combination of the eco mode dampening throttle response, minor turbo lag, and the transmission being up a gear means that you might respond by dipping into the throttle too aggressively and trigger a downshift to first. It also resolutely refuses to actually take the engine to indicated redline, even in manual mode. Not that this necessarily matters in a diesel anyway, but it always feels like it’s short-shifting below the already diesel-typical 4500rpm redline under hard acceleration. 

Snow traction is good - I drove back from Pittsburgh through the PA and WV mountains on 79, US-19, and I-77 in ~4-5” of snow, though I do note that the dedicated snow mode on the transmission resets every time you shut off the engine, meaning that you have to re-select it. Cold weather performance is also good - it’s a little sluggish on cold start when the weather is in the teens or below, and sounds a lot more like a diesel until it warms up, but it always fires right up. I did use an anti-gelling additive pretty religiously when the weather was in the single digits, which I’m sure helps, and having remote start in that kind of weather is also great.

The safety tech and ancillary automatic features are borderline amazing in terms of how well they actually work. The adaptive cruise control works extremely well in both heavy and light traffic, and I’m a convert. I will never buy another vehicle without it, and I have been telling other people the same thing - it is absolutely worth getting it if the option is available. I used it daily in both highway and city driving, in all sorts of conditions. It recognizes motorcycles, trailers, etc, and is very good at maintaining exactly the distance I’ve set, which is adjustable, and the combination of sensors it uses doesn’t set off the radar detector (when traveling outside of VA, of course). It's even smart enough to hold off on accelerating if it  My only complaints are that it is not as smooth as a human driver, because it doesn’t “see” as far, so it will continue accelerating and then stab the brakes to match traffic speed in cases where I would have seen that there was traffic ahead and just coasted or gently braked. It also sometimes (not always) accelerates away from a stop much more slowly than I would and I have to override it to get the turbo spun up. Lastly, while it will bring the vehicle to a full stop and resume moving again if traffic is creeping along, it has a timer that cancels the cruise control after just 2 seconds of sitting stopped behind another vehicle. This is too aggressive and should be adjustable, because the amount of times I have to manually resume from a stop would drop significantly if I could set that timeout to 4 or 5 seconds.  

The blind spot warning is a lot more unobtrusive than a lot of the ones I’ve seen, in that while it throws up the blind spot warning in the mirror, the audio alerts mostly leave you alone unless you have your turn signal on and it detects something directly in your blind spot. I guess if you don’t routinely use turn signals this might limit its effectiveness somewhat, but this is not a problem for me, and it’s less likely to be disabled because it doesn’t bleat at you every time you drift slightly over a line without your turn signal on. The only false positives I’ve gotten is when I am in a 2-lane turning lane, because it thinks that I’m going to be turning into the path of the cars in the adjacent turning lane, even though I’m not since the lane continues in parallel. The cross-traffic alert (warns you of a vehicle crossing your path if you’re backing out of a parking space) works very well - it often sees stuff before I do.

There is also an automated high beam system, and the best praise I can give is that the first few times I used it, every time I would be reaching for the stalk to turn my high beams on or off, it had already done it. It gets confused by lights at the roadside that look like headlights, but otherwise works quite well. 

Meh:

Collision warning is a mixed bag. It has definitely saved my bacon once or twice, but it also is more prone to false alarms due to differences in closing speeds and in situations where you are going around a turning vehicle, and since it makes a loud beep and pulses the brakes, the false alarms are occasionally bothersome, especially when the adaptive cruise control is engaged and someone cuts you off, because the two systems are clearly not talking to one another - the adaptive cruise is slowing the vehicle down just fine, yet the collision warning is still screaming at you. But ultimately it's not bothersome enough to defeat the system. 

There’s air suspension, which has several offroad settings to help the Jeep hike up its skirts when terrain requires it, and drops the front end by an inch or two when at highway speeds (Aero mode), plus a setting that drops the car down for ease of entry when parked. I have no doubt that the adjustable ride height improves the on-road performance without compromising off-road and heavily loaded performance. Minor complaints: Aero mode can’t be engaged manually like the other suspension settings can be. Putting the car in Sport mode enables Aero all the time, but it also disables Eco mode  (makes the transmission upshift sooner and remaps the throttle response to a more conservative profile). There is a setting that has the car automatically drop to the park height when you put it in park, and then raise to drive height when you exceed 10mph, but I’ve discovered two problems with that feature that outweigh the benefit of making it easier for the kids to get in and out of the car - the reduced height of the rear hatch makes me bump my head on it when loading and unloading, and if you don’t park carefully, the car drops itself down onto parking barriers and curbs such that it’s possible to catch the bumper on those things and damage the under tray. If it raised immediately after you started the vehicle, it’d at least avoid the latter problem. Also, the higher than normal settings make the suspension really crashy over bumps and stuff, I think because it increases the pressure in the suspension and thus reduces the dampening effect of the shocks.

Dislikes: 

The infotainment system is supposed to be basically state of the art, and as good as it sounds, I find it extremely frustrating. The Nav uses XM Travel Link to get traffic and other info to assist in routing, but I discovered when pitting it against the nav on my phone that it’s not nearly as smart about avoiding traffic as Google Maps. I’m guessing that it only avoids major backups, rather than Google’s typical which is to reroute you if it can save you more than 5 minutes. And generally, XM Travel link isn’t worth the subscription fee ($10/mo) once you get beyond the free period. 

The phone integration is good (it can read me text messages, do canned responses, call audio quality is good), but it occasionally fails to automatically pair with my phone, and has completely lost its pairing (no paired phones in the list) at least once in the first few months that I owned it. It’s supposed to have a data connection that can act as a Wifi hotspot, but the pricing is such that I’ve never seriously considered it as an option ($9.99/Day, $19.99/Week, $49.99/Month for unlimited data). I also haven’t messed much with the app integration (Pandora, Spotify, etc) because it seems like this is kind of an afterthought. It also won't let me dictate a response to a text message without signing up for some additional services, so I end up using Google on the phone anyway. 

I have two major complaints with this system. The first is the details of the user interface that make it clear that they just didn’t think through their execution quite long enough. For example - when playing any audio source, it has the usual displays on the main screen, including some of the RDS info (what song is playing, etc). But the secondary screen that you can call up on the center of the gauge cluster doesn’t carry any of that info - all it says is the frequency of what station you’re tuned to, or that you’re listening to Aux, SD card, USB, Bluetooth, etc. The secondary display is effectively useless because it doesn’t provide enough info to allow you to avoid having to look at the main display. Even on the main display, when it is playing something off of a user storage device, if the song name or artist name is longer than the number of characters it wants to display, it just truncates it, instead of scrolling. These are noticeable to me because previous vehicles had these details right, so FCA really has no excuse. 

But that is a minor annoyance compared to the last issue - how it handles user files. For a number of years, I have had a big thumb drive full of MP3s that served as the primary music source. A large portion of my music collection was dumped on it, it stayed in the car all the time, and I just pressed shuffle and went about my business. But where most cars have no trouble with this, including my 2010 Microsoft based Ford, 20-30GB of MP3s (around 4000 files according to the system) totally confounds this fancy system. It doesn’t support UFS-formatted drives, meaning that the vast majority of drives are going to have to be reformatted to FAT32 before they are recognized by the system at all. But after that, it doesn’t seem to possess the memory or processing horsepower to manage the task of indexing and playing music. As far as I can tell, it doesn’t maintain a nonvolatile index of the files that it can access quickly at boot, nor does it keep track of what it has already played. It remembers what song it was playing when you shut it off, but when you start the car, there’s a significant delay before it actually resumes playing that song (with 25GB of music it’s taking 1-2 minutes), and another 30-60 seconds once the song starts before it actually has finished indexing everything such that you could even skip to the next song. Shuffle maintains no state about what it has already played. The Ford system built a shuffle order when you initially pressed it, and worked its way through that list until the end or you turned off shuffle or added new songs, where this one starts a new shuffle with the currently playing song as track 1 in the list, meaning that you hear some songs very frequently, others almost never unless you’re on a long trip with multiple hours where you don’t turn the car off. It is nearly impossible to select a specific artist/album/song to play, because the system is too slow to populate the list. 1-2 minutes to build the list after you press the button, and then if you go into a specific subdirectory and then navigate back to the full list, you’re waiting for it to build the list again. Voice control mostly works if you know exactly what you want to play, but getting back to shuffling all songs has the standard delay. I’ve tried more than one USB drive as well as switching to an SD card (it has a dedicated SD slot) in the hopes that this was due to the speed of my thumb drive, but nothing helps. It’s just a poor execution with insufficient testing. 

The parking sensors are a little dumb, in that they alert me of an object in front of me despite the transmission being in reverse, and vice versa. A better execution would be to have the lights on the display tell you that it’s detecting an obstacle, but mute the beeps. Otherwise, you can’t always discern whether you need to pay attention to the beeping, which reduces its effectiveness as a warning system. 

Reliability

Ok, so this seems like a pretty good trucklet, why'd you get rid of it? Well, with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, I'm not certain the BMW would have been the less reliable choice anymore. First, FCA got caught cheating on emissions, and I got a settlement payment and an extension of the entire diesel emissions system warranty for the price of a couple of software updates. Mostly a good thing. Generally, it was dead reliable for about the first 18 months I owned it. 
But...at about the 2 year mark, it started randomly throwing check engine lights, and then clearing them right about the time I'd think to myself "you know, I probably need to get that looked at..." And finally, mid-summer it freaked out a lot worse, I got a "service electronic throttle control" message and it went into a limp mode, where you basically only get about 30% throttle at most. The dealer tried to blame the air filter that was recently changed, charged me a diagnostic fee, and sent me on my way, only to have the problem return. Total tally of trips through the dealer before they actually found and fixed the problem: 3, over the course of 1500 miles. That one, the one where they replaced the exhaust particulate filter sensor and a boost pressure/MAF sensor, and the one where they actually found the root cause, which was a split hose in the intercooler. Due to the combination of low parts availability, and the fact that my Jeep dealer had exactly 1 diesel mechanic, who was clearly a Cummins guy, this was the first stint where they had my Jeep for something approaching 30 days, including while I was supposed to be on vacation. I'll spare you the rant about the terrible Dodge Journey they gave me as a loaner.
After all of that, it kept throwing CELs periodically, and I'd take it in, and they'd blame the fuel filter, or dirty injectors. It calmed down a little bit when I swapped the fuel filter and ran 2 tanks of fuel injector cleaner through it, but earlier this year it was starting to do it again fairly regularly. 
Then, on Fathers' Day this year, it was hard to start. I thought maybe the nearly 5 year old battery had just died, and so I threw it on the charger for a bit and tried again later. Eventually got it started after rather a lot of cranking, and took it on a test drive to get the battery charged. Noticed a lot of white smoke, decided I should turn around, and before I could get it all the way home, it was overheating. Had to have it towed to the dealer on suspicion of a blown head gasket, and they diagnosed it as a cracked EGR cooler that was sucking coolant into the intake. This was apparently on some major back order such that they had the thing for a month after initially telling me they might not get the parts until September (!!). They test drive it after repair, it throws a code that requires replacement of a glow plug, another couple of days delay. Then I get it back, I have it for less than 24 hours, and it throws a "service DEF system" alert and another CEL. They did get it repaired in time for me to take it to the beach, and it behaves itself for a change, but there was definitely some stress about whether that would be true or not. 
My original plan had been to keep it until the end of the extended warranty (another 2 years/30K miles) and then probably sell it, with the assumption that I'd have a number of good hybrid or electric options available to replace it with. But after realizing that I no longer trusted it not to strand me somewhere while on a trip or have some failure that Jeep either couldn't diagnose right the first try, or couldn't find parts to repair in a timely manner meaning I'd lose use of it for multiple weeks, it simply wasn't worth it anymore. If this hadn't been outside the statute of limitations for VA's Lemon Law, I would have had a good case for them to buy it back from me, as it met all of the other criteria. And then right around the time when I'm starting to seriously wonder whether I should replace it, FCA announces another recall that could result in a no-start condition, and that was sort of the final nail in the coffin for it. To the point that I actually dubbed it the "NecroDiesel".
I think the reality is that the added complexity necessary to make a small diesel clean and efficient simply makes it unreliable and difficult to troubleshoot, so since I was coming up on 75K miles, I figured it'd be better to get out from under it while it still held some value. I bought it for about $35K, got a $2500 settlement from FCA for being bad at diesel, sold it to Carmax 3 years and 40K miles later for $20K, so not a bad depreciation, all told. 
I ended up keeping the pickup, so I never did use the tow hitch for anything more than a bike rack, and while the Grand Cherokee itself is a pretty good vehicle, I'd never recommend the diesel they're using in these to anyone.

Dragging the Car Stereo into the 21st Century

I have a 2007 911 Turbo (997.1) that had the factory sound system in it until about 2 weeks ago. The factory system (called PCM2.1) was pretty much obsolete when it came from the factory, as it came as follows: 

• Non-touch LCD screen with auxiliary settings for the car, slot-loading CD/DVD drive, AM/FM radio, travel band, and phone
• Phone included an old GSM SIM slot, but was never activated for the US market cars at all
• In-dash drive could read data CDs and DVDs and play MP3s, so you could get a whopping 4.5GB of MP3 files if you were willing to swap disks around.
• Auxiliary controls on the steering wheel
• The phone controls did nothing because the phone wasn't active, so all you really had was volume/mute, and a way to move through the menus without twisting the other knob on the dash. Since Porsche charged extra for the steering wheel with the controls if you ticked that box on your order, I think I would have been kinda pissed at them had they sold me the car as new with several of the buttons being wholly useless, but I digress...
• DVD-based satellite navigation system mounted in the trunk (remember the bad old days of needing to periodically drop several hundred dollars to buy a new DVD for your SATNAV so that it knew where the new roads were?)
• 6-disc CD changer, also mounted in the trunk
• Bose speakers, subwoofer, and amplifier (mounted in the trunk)
• The widgets in the trunk all connected via MOST (basically TosLink-style multimode fiber using visible light LEDs) along with a power, etc connector.

So, no Bluetooth, no aux input, almost useless steering wheel controls, and completely useless SatNAV, plus the two main knobs were starting to develop that weird, sticky feeling that older rubberized plastics suffer from. It kinda sucked. And apparently there were ways to have a bluetooth unit that replaced your CD changer to supply audio that way, but it didn't tie into the mic in the car and so wouldn't have worked as a real solution.

I've had a general sense for what I wanted to do for 2 or 3 years, namely swap to a modern head unit with MP3 and Bluetooth, but hopefully keep as much of the factory audio (speakers, amp, steering wheel controls) as possible, but couldn't justify the cost. What really sealed the deal for me was that during my various adventures in owning a Jeep with an Italian made diesel engine that unfortunately perpetuates the stereotype for unreliability that plagues Italian-made cars (which is another blog post all on its own...) my service loaners let me see how Android Auto works with a modern head unit. That made it more and more obvious how much the sound system in the Porsche really didn't fit with how I use my phone and listen to music in the car. So I finally ordered everything. 

Al and Ed's Autosound/Del Ray Customs did all the hard work of figuring out all of the bits I'd need to make all of this stuff work:

• Crux SWRBM57 to make the steering wheel controls talk to the new head unit
• NAVTV MOST HUR - converts the analog audio to digital to send to the Bose amp
• Pioneer NEX 4600  
• Backup camera
• custom wiring harness to make everything plug and play

It's not exactly perfect. You lose fader control due to the fact that the MOST box apparently doesn't implement the right protocol to tell the Bose amp what to do like the original PCM did, it just pretends to be the original head unit enough to get it to accept a stereo audio signal. I had to run a new mic and GPS antenna instead of using the ones that I know are already in the car. The latter was especially annoying since I specifically bought a head unit without standalone GPS navigation because I knew I would be using Google Maps on my phone via Android Auto, but there is literally no way to manually set the date and time, it insists on using GPS to do it. Pioneer also seems to have removed the ability to put a custom background image on the startup splash screen so I can't make it show a Porsche logo when it comes on, and the radio reception is a little dodgy, even after I had to jumper a broken wire in the premade harness leading to the FM amp power lead. Also there seems to be some vague flakiness with Android Auto, even with brand new USB-C cables, where my phone will sometimes spontaneously reboot when the car shuts off, so I'm suspecting there may be some subsequent updates to phone, head unit, or both to resolve this. Android Auto units are just now sprouting the ability to do this wirelessly via an in-unit WiFi connection, which this NEX supports but the version of Android on my phone doesn't support that yet. 

There are plenty of how-tos on the in-dash part, which honestly if it weren't for the troubleshooting the radio, would have been done in about 4 hours total. However, part of this overall job for me is to pull the CD changer and DVD SATNAV that are now taking up precious cargo space and being generally dead weight in the front of my car, and there were a lot fewer instructions on that part. I cruised around on a lot of forum posts before I got complete enough info to feel comfortable tackling this, so I thought it might be useful to summarize it here. 

The plastic shrouds over both systems are friction fit, and you have to wedge a putty knife or trim tool between the floor of the car and the bottom of each to give you some leverage, and each comes straight up and off of the clips it's attached to. You may also want to pull the fuse feeding the stereo or disconnect your battery while doing this. I managed to somehow blow the fuse while disconnecting this stuff and then couldn't figure out why my radio wouldn't come on even with the MOST bypass in place. 

The CD changer has a bracket with 3 10mm nuts, one in the front, which is visible as soon as you pull the cover off, and two in the back, hidden behind the carpet...and the damn Bose amp. In other words, you will have to remove the Bose amp temporarily to get at those two screws. There is a metal clip at the top that you use a screwdriver to pry upward, and then the amp slides out of its slot. CD changer has a power connector and a MOST connector, both of which have clips to press to get them out. Then you reinstall the amp by sliding it back down into place and using 2 screwdrivers to pry both sides of the clip back up so that it clicks down over the amp again. 

The DVD drive for the SATNAV is to the right of the Bose amp. It has a power connection, a MOST connection, and a GPS antenna. I never could get the clip pressed on the GPS antenna and ended up breaking the little plastic locking clip to get it loose because it's totally blind up under the bottom of the DVD bracket and you don't have enough slack to remove the DVD without disconnecting it. There are two little pink levers you have to press on the sides of the drive up near the DVD slot to actually slide it out of the bracket, and then the bracket itself has 3 metal clips that get pried upward to release it from the bulkhead. 

You need two of these female MOST loopback plugs, because MOST is a ring, and disconnecting either will break the ring and you won't have audio anymore. 

This will leave you with a carpet that doesn't cover the entire trunk floor, because it had a cutout for the CD changer and amp/DVD areas, and one area of bare metal where the DVD drive's bracket was. I don't care all that much so I'm not ordering the alternate carpet, and the only way to address the metal is by replacing the entire back plastic trim, which I don't think is worth the $250 it looks like it costs. However, I am ordering the alternate cover that fits over just the Bose amp, so that it gets some protection from stuff in the trunk and the elements and such, while still giving me back the space to use for cargo. The part number is 997.551.108 and it's called a booster cover. I don't know if that's because of a dodgy German translation of "amplifier" or if in some versions of the 997 there is actually a brake booster in there or something, but it took some head scratching looking at the parts diagrams to confirm that was the correct part. 

The backup camera wire goes along the passenger side door sill trim and into the back seat, and there is a panel below the back window that you pull off to access a hole that has a grommet that goes into the engine compartment, to another grommet that goes through the body to the hole the right taillight assembly sits in, which will let you fish it through an opening in the bumper to get to the license plate light hole. Apparently the way to do this is to go from the back using a 48" heavy duty zip tie covered in WD-40, and then tape the wire to it once it surfaces in the interior to pull the wire back through. I have poked around but haven't attempted this exact method yet. There are videos, but they aren't especially clear on the method for fishing the wire as much as the path, so I was unsuccessful on my first attempt and asked for clarification, resulting in the above. 

All in all, I ended up with a much better system, and something in the neighborhood of a 13 pound weight loss, some new space in the trunk, and maybe if I get lucky I can unload some or all of the old system on eBay to defray the cost of the new one, though I can't see much use for going to the trouble of replacing a faulty part in an otherwise obsolete system rather than simply using it as an excuse to upgrade.